Burguete to Zubiri

We hopped out of bed this morning and packed away our still wet clothes and headed down to breakfast. After eating our fill we set out down the Camino trail.Burguete is a beautiful little village and we both loved it. 

But it was time to put some miles behind us and see what was over the next hill. We walked about 3 kilometers and came into the tiny village of Espinal. Savanna and I both love these little villages and the people are always warm and friendly. We stopped at a tiny bar for a cafe' con leche (bars in Spain are restraunts that sell food, soft drinks, fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee and of course local beers and wines).

We made friends with the owner and had a good time chatting with him.

Iggy, the owner took good care of us and makes a great cup of coffee. He also stamped our pilgrims passport for us.

After a short rest and coffee, we saddled up again and headed down the trail. 

We hiked through the woods and across streams for another 3 kilometers and walked into the village of Viskarreta.

We followed the yellow arrows and scallop shells that indicate the Camino de Santiago or Way of St. James through the village and started climbing out of the valley it is located in. Along the path we came across a beautifu old cemetary.

We walked through the gates and I thought to mysdelf that a man could do much worse for a choice of a final resting place than this little place in Spain. The birds were singing and the sun was shining and there was calm and peaceful feeling there.

We paid our respects and moved on down the path. After a while we walked into the village of Linzoain. We stopped for a short rest and to took off our hiking boots for a bit to let our feet cool off and dry out. The local bar had fresh squeezed orange juice that was just the thing we needed.

After a short break, we laced up our boots and set out again. This time we were headed for the town where we would spend the night. 

Savanna and I have noticed that there are several different kind of pilgrims on the Camino. Some have booked every place they are going to stay along the entire route and have to make a certain number of miles to get there. They usually have a stressed out and determined look to them and are in a hurry. Then there are the touristas that are let out along the route each morning with a tiny day pack and picked up each afternoon and taken to a designated hotel. They are mainly older folks and fun to talk to. Then there are the ones that are doing it mainly as a challenge and the goal is to get to the end and receive the prize. Savanna and I are more of the wandering pilgrim type. We set out each morning having no idea where we will lay our head for the night. We stop when we want, take lots of pictures and talk to a lot of people. We think the real prize is the journey itself and living in the moment. I think this is more like the pilgrims of old.

As we hiked through the woods there was no end of things to look at and take pictures of.

One of the things you will notice along the Camino are little piles of stacked rocks called Cairns that have been built by past pilgrims. Some do it as a rememberence of lost loved ones and others do it and then say prayers for people they care about. For others it is tied to Zen and meditation. Each time we come across one of them, Savanna and I find a pebble that seems to speak to us at the time and add it to the Cairn out of respect.

Savanna came across a twig that had naturally grown into the shape of the cross floating in a mud puddle on the Camino path. She picked it up and kept it thinking that there might be a Cairn down the path that needed it. Sure enough, about a quarter kilometer later we came across one that only had a few stones placed haphazardly on it and it seemed like the intended place for the tiny cross. Savanna placed it on the Cairn along with a couple of stones from us. It looked like it belonged there. Just another example of the magic that happens along the "The Way".

We made our way down the trail and soon caught our first glimpse of where we would be spending the night. As we topped yet another hill we could see Zubiri through the trees in the distance.

We slipped and slid our way down to the valley and into Zubiri. Zubiri is Basque for Village of the Bridge. In medieval times it was believed that this Gothic bridge over the River Arga was able to rid animals of rabies by driving the livestock three times around its central pillar; this is why the bridge was also known as the Bridge of Rabies. This power to ward off the disease is attributed to the relics of St Quiteria that are buried in the abutment of the bridge. 

My theory is that since there was no television, internet, movies or even books, the local people made the story up so they could be entertained by watching someone trying to lead a foaming at the mouth animal with rabies through the water and around the pillar three times. Hey I would pay to see that myself.

We found a local hotel with hot water and free breakfast to call home for the night. We hung our clothes that were still wet from yesterday out on the terrace to dry and found the best pizza that either of us has ever had. 

Now it is time to call it a night because morning comes early when you are a pilgrim. Until next time, Buen Camino!